A platform in the sea, a bit smaller than a handball court, about 20 metres above sea level: the principality of Sealand some 10 kilometres off the east coast of England. It does not exist in international law. But a visit to the royal family, Michael Bates and his children, proves the opposite. In1942, this fortress was anchored out at sea as an anti-aircraft defence against German attacks. In1966 it was occupied by Roy Bates, a former army major turned radio pirate. He called his service “Britain's Better Music Station” and his state “Sealand”. In the early years, Roy Bates resolutely fought off efforts to oust him, once even being taken to court for shooting at the navy. The verdict was “no jurisdiction” over offshore waters. Since then there has been a truce between the principality and the United Kingdom. In the meantime the real enemy is rust. But Sealand remains Sealand – a wind-powered utopia with its own national anthem and well-wishers all over the world.